(Continued from page 17)

band. This route follows one of these chimney/tubes to the midheight meadow.

1) Climb one of the chimney/tubes to the meadow (V1). 150 ft; 5.8?

2) On the NW corner of the tower an obvious ledge system can be seen leading up and left (east). Climb up in the back of an alcove to the ledge, then follow this left past a good ring piton (5.4 traverse move past pin) to another step.  Surmount this (bolt & fixed wire), and continue left to a large, sheltered ledge in a corner (sling thread & Friends in pockets for the belay). 100 ft; 5.4

3) Move left (east) around the corner into a chimney, then straight up lower angled rock (passing a two bolt anchor) to a shallow right leaning corner and the summit. 150 ft; 5.4

V1 It's possible to avoid the initial chimney/tubes by starting about 100 feet further right at the back of a recess. Climb up to a ledge, then traverse out left past a two bolt anchor to the top of the chimney/tubes (5.4).

 

Montezuma's Revenge   5.7   FA P1-3: Todd Swain, Peggy Buckey 12/20/83  FA P4: Donette Smith, Todd Swain  4/95

  This route climbs the north face of the tower, and joins The NW Chimney Route after  nearly 500 ft of climbing. From the north col, scramble up an easy ramp then move left (E) to a deep chimney/groove with agave plants and waterstreaks.

1) Up the chimney/groove for thirty feet (good nut) then traverse out right to a sloping ledge. Climb straight up over a bulge (5.6) to a ramp leading up and right. Belay in the alcove above. 100 ft; 5.6

2) From the alcove traverse left (E) twenty feet across a steep wall. Climb straight up to a three foot roof in a shallow right facing corner. Surmount the roof (5.7), then climb straight up to a belay ledge. Belay behind a huge block. 100 ft; 5.7

3) Scramble up on easy rock to the midheight meadow, and the base of the upper cliff. 200 ft; 5.2

4) Go to the extreme lower left (NE) end of the midheight meadow and belay from a bolt and fixed pin under a ceiling. Turn the ceiling and follow a chimney past overhangs to a ledge. Step right and climb a waterstreak/groove to a belay on a sheltered ledge in a corner (belay as for P4 of The NW Chimney Route). 80 ft; 5.7+

5) Move left (E) around the corner into a chimney, then straight up lower angled rock (passing a two bolt anchor) to a shallow right leaning corner and the summit. 150 ft; 5.4

 

The Spire's Descent:

There used to be a rappel route down the SW face of the spire, but the rock has become too loose to trust. This leaves but one option:

 

1) Downclimb to the two bolts on pitch five of The NW Face Route, and then rappel from there to the traverse ledge with one rope.

2) Reverse the traverse to the bolt and fixed wire. Rappel down to the midheight meadow with one rope.

3) Scramble down to the north col or reverse the lower portion of The SW Face Route.

 

 

Montezuma's Revenge   5.7   FA P1-3: Todd Swain, Peggy Buckey 12/20/83  FA P4: Donette Smith, Todd Swain  4/95

  This route climbs the north face of the tower, and joins The NW Chimney Route after  nearly 500 ft of climbing. From the north col, scramble up an easy ramp then move left (E) to a deep chimney/groove with agave plants and waterstreaks.

1) Up the chimney/groove for thirty feet (good nut) then traverse out right to a sloping ledge. Climb straight up over a bulge (5.6) to a ramp leading up and right. Belay in the alcove above. 100 ft; 5.6

2) From the alcove traverse left (E) twenty feet across a steep wall. Climb straight up to a three foot roof in a shallow right facing corner. Surmount the roof (5.7), then climb straight up to a belay ledge. Belay behind a huge block. 100 ft; 5.7

3) Scramble up on easy rock to the midheight meadow, and the base of the upper cliff. 200 ft; 5.2

4) Go to the extreme lower left (NE) end of the midheight meadow and belay from a bolt and fixed pin under a ceiling. Turn the ceiling and follow a chimney past overhangs to a ledge. Step right and climb a waterstreak/groove to a belay on a sheltered ledge in a corner (as for P4 of The NW Chimney Route). 80 ft; 5.7+

5) Move left (E) around the corner into a chimney, then straight up lower angled rock (passing a two bolt anchor) to a shallow right leaning corner and the summit. 150 ft; 5.4

 

The Spire's Descent:

There used to be a rappel route down the SW face of the spire, but the rock has become too loose to trust. This leaves but one option:

 

1) Downclimb to the two bolts on pitch five of The NW Face Route, and then rappel from there to the traverse ledge with one rope.

2) Reverse the traverse to the bolt and fixed wire. Rappel down to the midheight meadow with one rope.

3) Scramble down to the north col or reverse the lower portion of The SW Face Route.