Scotland

1980-81 & 1981-82

During the winters of 1980-81 and 1981-82, Todd guided for some companies in Scotland, including the Glencoe School of Winter Climbing, which at that time was run by Richard McHardy. In addition to guiding numerous routes, Todd made many on-sight solo ascents, including Point Five Gully and the Orion Face Direct on Ben Nevis and Smith’s Route on Creag Meagaidh. He also climbed in the Cairngorms, Glencoe and on the Isle of Skye. In Glen Nevis, he ferreted out a couple of small, new rock routes. During these winters he developed friendships with a number of Scottish climbing legends such as Con Higgins, Richard McHardy, Hamish McInnes, Paul Moores, “Big Ian” Nicholson and George Reid.

Following those winters, numerous Scottish friends visited Todd and Donette in the States (at Bishop, the Gunks, Joshua Tree and Red Rocks) and at overseas locations.

2018

In 2018, Donette and Todd spent six weeks visiting friends and climbing in Scotland. They climbed at about 20 different areas, including doing 11 new routes on sea cliffs on Mull, Rum and Skye.

2019

Todd and Donette returned to Scotland for three weeks in 2019 to see friends and do more climbing. In addition to climbing the big three sea stacks (Am Buachaille, Old Man of Hoy and Old Man of Stoer), they did ten new routes at Torridon.

2021, 2022

In 2021 and 2022, Donette and Todd climbed with Scottish friends on Baffin Island in Canada, in Iceland and in southern Sweden. Despite all of this exposure to Scots, neither Todd nor Donette have developed a noticeable brogue!

2023

Another visit was made in 2023, which is listed under the United Kingdom.

Todd has written three articles about his Scottish experiences – Without Rime or Reason (Summit Magazine, 1983), Without Rime or Reason (Appalachia, 1984) and Scotland the Climbing Way (Appalachia, December 2019).